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05 passat 1.8 turbo t-belt


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#1 stilljackson

 
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Posted 23 June 2013 - 03:56 PM

What's the easiest way to get this timing belt on. Its my first vw job. Also I took off the valve cover and the cam adjustment is off. One window. Shits a bitch to put back on without the tool 3366. I got it but if you barely touch it the tension changes and goes back over a window. I have the exhaust lined up. And 16 teeth (linKs). So I got the intake with vice grips and turn the cam until it lined up again. But the tensioner is not all the way up almost tho. So is it gonna go all the way up later and keep these windows in place? Its oil pressured so when the cars started will it keeps the marks lined up? If I turn the crank two revelurevolutions should they line up? Or will they not because there's no oil pressure? Also anyone got the tq specs for cam caps. 05 1.8t awm

#2 stilljackson

 
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Posted 23 June 2013 - 05:32 PM

Nvm. Just watched utube

#3 VW Techguy

 
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Posted 23 June 2013 - 11:31 PM

Cam caps. 8lbs. With the links correct between the intake and exhaust cams just set up the t belt. Unplug the coils. Spin the engine to move some oil. Clear faults from the ecm and let it run. Replace the coolant pump while your in there. There plastic impellars break.

#4 fullsizeblazin

 
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Posted 24 June 2013 - 09:28 AM

Timing belt? You mean "car replacement interval"?

#5 zackm58941

 
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Posted 25 June 2013 - 06:32 PM

you dont need any special tools for 1.8t or 2.0t engines, nor does valve cover need to be removed....diyer's get in over there heads real quick and good thing there are more youtube's to bail you guys out!



#6 Saltmine

 
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Posted 25 June 2013 - 07:46 PM

You rub it gently while showing it plenty of timing belt porn. Then, you slip it on, and pour cold water on it. Or blow a police whistle.


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#7 stilljackson

 
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Posted 27 June 2013 - 02:40 AM

I had to take off the valve cover. It threw code for cam over advanced. The intake cam was off a tooth. And whoever had the car before us tried to pry the cam out with a screw driver and f'd up up the journal. Grinder down the cam . it also messed up the head. We got a new head. Special tool 3366 for the cam adjuster. My only question is I got all the timing marks lined up. But when I spin it to revolutions the tensioner hops. Doesn't keep tension. Is it because it's oil pressured? When I crank it the tensioner will stay in one place?

#8 stilljackson

 
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Posted 27 June 2013 - 02:41 AM

Or bad tensioner? I'm guessing it needs oil pressure

#9 stilljackson

 
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Posted 27 June 2013 - 02:43 AM

Windows are lined up and 16 links spread apart. But when I turn it by hand comes off a Window, which was the original problem and tensioner hops

#10 fullsizeblazin

 
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Posted 27 June 2013 - 09:23 AM

Always replace timing belt tensioners (especially hydraulic ones) with new timing belts.

#11 VW Techguy

 
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Posted 27 June 2013 - 03:22 PM

The cam adjuster between the intake and exhaust needs oil pressure. If the plastic guides not broken it should never jump a tooth. Set the chains up with the 16 links. Put the timing belt on and make the marks on the crank pulley and the line on the cam gear lines up with the notch on the front of the valve cover. Make sure the plastic guides for the chain are not broken. If they are cracked its junk

#12 Karrpilot

 
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Posted 27 June 2013 - 05:32 PM

You didn't have the special tools needed to do the job. Then you ended up installing a new head on an 8 year old V W. Not enough shade under the tree? Sweat running down off your fore head, into your eyes? You couldn't see the job was a money loosing proposition at best, before you ever grabbed a wrench out of your tool box?

 

Too bad you can't return the cylinder head, now that you have installed it. That car would probably be better off hooked through the open windows with the wheel loader forks, and loaded onto a flat bed. I have been getting pretty good at that task lately. We know when to pull the life support plug here.)


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#13 stilljackson

 
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Posted 28 June 2013 - 02:29 AM

I get paid by the karrpillot. I had to transfer over the cams and adjuster. They tell me to do it, I do it. My paycheck. But u are right. I have told em, u guys start a business u know nothing about and u go to buy the hardest cars possible. Not to mention they bought a Mercedes that needs new modules. They're not very smart. But I like to help and try to get my experience. I'm not working on the Mercedes. I did the passat and audi. Aloe of time wasted tho I'll admit. Like I said when I got hired I have no experience on these Germany cars. I finally got everything lined up. All marks. It is a bit of a different ball game. My opinion, why don't we go on Craigslist and buy mechanic specials that we can compression test, scan, and most of all drive. Instead of gambling, they're gonna learn the hard way alright. 3 years experience, 1 week experience on Germany cars . lol, I would like to thank this site, and those who helped. I really appreciate it.

#14 stilljackson

 
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Posted 28 June 2013 - 02:30 AM

I get paid by the hour*

#15 Karrpilot

 
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Posted 28 June 2013 - 04:48 PM

From what little experience I have with German cars, I know enough to steer clear of them. My nephew's wife had a hard on for V W's. I think she got wet between the legs from them, but I never asked.) Anyway, I had to replace the rear brakes on her Jetta. Complete with the wheel cylinders. There was some sort of drop down cam / wedge piece that was the brake adjuster. No shit. As the brakes wore, this cam would come down due to gravity, and push the shoes out against the drums. Had to have been about the cheapest set up I have ever seen, short of a Chevette with manually adjustable rear brake cams.

 

My cousin's wife also had a thing for those V W's. Until the rear shocks came up through the rusted out floorboards when she went over a railroad track. I took one look at it, and told her to call a junkyard. This car wasn't about to be fixed by me, and wasn't worth the time and labor a body shop would have charged to make it right.

 

That pretty much ended my conversations with her.)


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#16 Saltmine

 
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Posted 28 June 2013 - 10:48 PM

My daughter wants to buy one of them new VW TDI Jetta, turbo-diesel shitboxes. I keep telling her that if she does, I will probably disown her. Her argument is that the VW turbo diesel gets such good gas mileage.

I told her, that if she has that much money to spend on a diesel, go look at the new Chevy Cruze turbo-diesel. It gets even better fuel economy than a VW, and it can be worked on by human beings.

I seriously think some ass-clown at a Volkswagen dealer has been blowing smoke up her ass. I wonder if they even have a VW dealer where she lives.

 

You think that's a cheap-ass brake adjuster? You should have seen the ratcheting brake strut they used on the Vega. I still have my GM special tool to release the ratchet when you replace the brakes. Funny thing, though....It always worked perfectly.


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#17 Karrpilot

 
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Posted 29 June 2013 - 08:49 AM

Saltmine, what worked perfectly? Your GM special tool, or the brakes on a Vega? Here in Chicago, when those Vega's needed brakes, they also needed floorboards. One could slow down a Vega by dropping gears and putting your feet to the ground.

 

That was years before the Get A New Car light came on in the dash. But most people figured out that when their Vega needed brakes, their Vega also needed a new home. My favorite junkyard comes to mind.)


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#18 Saltmine

 
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Posted 29 June 2013 - 12:58 PM

The brake adjusting strut, KP.. All you had to do was pull the parking brake lever once in a while, and the brakes stayed adjusted until the shoes wore out. I guess it's a "regional thing" with the Vega.

I owned one that I got for next to nothing. It burned oil like a fiend. (explains the bargain price). Anyway, I had the opportunity to closely examine the 2.3L Vega four-cylinder engine, and discovered that incorrect or poorly installed valve guide seals were responsible for 90% of all Vega oil consumption complaints. Vegas were known to be overheaters, too. But a little machine work on the block would transform them into cool running, well behaved engines. I drove my Vega over 100,000miles, without a problem, then sold it to a guy for twice what I paid for it.


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#19 VW Techguy

 
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Posted 29 June 2013 - 04:41 PM

The VW TDI with a DPF delete and the right software can make 300lbs of torque. Not to shaby for a 2.0l. Now the peoblem is the fuel. If there is gas in the fuel be it a station screw up or the owner it destroys the high pressure pump and fills the system with shavings. New pump, aux pump, filter housing, injectors, fuel lines and clean out the fuel tank. 7k job.

#20 Mike N

 
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Posted 30 June 2013 - 07:26 AM

There's supposed to be a spring on that triangle wedge to pull it down for brake adjustment. It may be a cheap setup but it always worked. The nice thing is how easy it us to unadjust the rear brakes for drum removal...... stick a small screwdriver thru a lug bolt hole and push the adjuster up to collapse the shoes.

 

Imagine if it was that easy to get a drum off a Taurus.

Anyway, I had to replace the rear brakes on her Jetta. Complete with the wheel cylinders. There was some sort of drop down cam / wedge piece that was the brake adjuster. No shit. As the brakes wore, this cam would come down due to gravity, and push the shoes out against the drums. Had to have been about the cheapest set up I have ever seen

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